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It is a telling comment on Barcelona's character that one can recommend a single street - the Ramblas - as a highlight. No day in the city seems complete without a stroll down at least part of what, for Lorca, was "the only street in the world which I wish would never end". Littered with cafés, shops, restaurants and newspaper kiosks, it's at the heart of Barcelona's life and self-image - a focal point for locals every bit as much as for tourists. There are also important buildings and monuments along the Ramblas, visits to which can punctuate a stroll from end to end. But it's the street life itself which is the greatest attraction - one to which you'll return again and again.

The Ramblas bisect Barcelona's old town ( La Ciutat Vella ), which spreads north from the harbour in an uneven wedge and is bordered by the Parc de la Ciutadella to the east, Plaça de Catalunya to the north and the slopes of Montjuïc and the Eixample neighbourhood of Poble Sec to the west. Contained within this jumble of streets is a series of neighbourhoods - originally separate medieval parishes and settlements - that retain certain distinct characteristics today. Some of these old town neighbourhoods are accessible by diving off the Ramblas into the side streets as you go - like the Barrio Chino (or Raval ), the city's still functioning but reduced red-light district, or the area back from the harbour around c/la Mercè. But by far the greatest concentration of interest is in the cramped Barri Gòtic , which curls out from around the cathedral. Here you'll find the city's finest medieval buildings and churches tucked into jumbled streets and alleys, along with several museums (a couple decidedly offbeat), and the surviving portions of walls and buildings dating back as far as Roman times. East of here, across the broad Via Laietana , the old town streets continue in La Ribera , encompassing two of Barcelona's most favoured sights: the graceful church of Santa María del Mar and the showpiece Museu Picasso .

You could see most of the places and buildings described in this section in a long day's outing. You'll have to walk around the old town , but it's not very big and pounding the medieval streets is half of the appeal anyway; to start your tour, the nearest metro stops are Catalunya, Liceu or Drassanes (top, middle and bottom of the Ramblas respectively), or Jaume I on the far side of the Barri Gòtic. Note that although a few of Barcelona's most important monuments and museums open throughout the day in summer - from 9am to 8pm - most things close for an extended lunchtime and all day on Monday , so be prepared to sit out two or three of your midday hours in a bar or restaurant. It's also worth knowing that some museums offer reduced-price entry on Wednesdays; others are free on the first Sunday of each month. The tourist office organizes walking tours of the Barri Gòtic on Saturdays leaving from Plaça de Catalunya (in English 10am, in Spanish/Catalan noon; tel 906 301 282 to reserve a place).

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